Yoyogi Park is 54 hectares of lawns, forest and fountains next to Meiji Jingu, on land that was a parade ground, then American officers’ housing, then the athletes’ village for the 1964 Olympics. Kenzo Tange’s swooping Olympic gymnasium stands at its southern edge. It is the least formal of Tokyo’s big parks: no admission, no closing time for the outer paths, and a long tradition of amateur musicians, dancers, cosplayers and jugglers practicing wherever they can find space.
Sunday is the day. Enter from Harajuku past the Rockabilly crews, cross to the central lawn for a picnic, then check the event square for whichever country’s festival is on. Early April and late November, when the ginkgo avenue turns yellow, are the busiest and best.
Tips
- The rockabilly dancers gather at the Harajuku gate on Sunday afternoons, usually from around 13:00
- Weekend festivals in the event square by the stadium bring Thai, Vietnamese, Brazilian and craft-beer food stalls
- Rent a bike by the cycling course on the north side, or bring a picnic; alcohol is permitted